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German Shepherds

Contents

Introduction

I was just a child when Dad was assigned to Sembach, Germany. We spent three years there, and somewhere during that time, I bought or was given a small, framed print of a German Shepherd Dog. It wasn’t an expensive thing, just the type of plastic and paint you typically find in a child’s room, but it went with me wherever I went after that. Today it sits in a quiet corner of a wooden chest with a few other memories.

It was almost 20 years later before I finally had the opportunity to indulge my passion and buy my first German Shepherd. Unfortunately, I was about as naive as a buyer could be. I assumed that everyone who deliberately bred dogs—particularly such a special breed—bred good dogs. I knew better than to go to a pet store and therefore avoid the usual puppy mill sources, but that was about all I knew.

I bought my first shepherd from an extraordinarily sweet woman who cared for her son’s dogs while he studied veterinary medicine at a university out of state, and whose ex-husband deliberately combined the bitch and stud into one pen one day when she was at work and the bitch was in heat. If I understood the story properly, he did so at his son’s instruction, and could I ever have a heart-to-heart with that less-than-intelligent and supposedly-scholarly young man, I rather fear it would begin with a thwap over his head and end with some very hard truths about responsibility, accountability, and ethics, with a mild dose of genetics and a heavy dose of breeder’s, breeding, and breed standards thrown in along the way. As a veterinary student, he should have known better than the average backyard breeder what the ramifications of a bad—or even badly considered—breeding program would be.

I took John home when he was a few days older than eight weeks—a lovely grey sable with markings that promised to be distinctive when he grew into an adult coat—and we found ourselves plunged into a cycle of sulphur and tar baths to treat the case of mange the poor pup had acquired in its first few months of life. No sooner did we clear that problem than he began the frustrating—and painful—cycle of panosteitis, an ailment of the long bones. Literally, the animal grows too fast for its longer bones to keep up and experiences a nasty cycle of pain, usually rotating among the legs until that period of growth has ended. It’s common in the big and giant breeds—such as Shepherds, Rottweilers, Great Danes, Leonbergers—as well as horses and the occasional fast-growing pre-teen, although I suspect it goes by a different name in in human patients.

Pano is, thankfully, a temporary problem that eventually goes away. It makes the pup’s life miserable for a while, requires that the owner keep the animal relatively quiet, and the occasional aspirin helps the youngster get through the worst of it. But once the worst of the growth spurt is over—in large dogs that tends to be around 18 months or so, give or take a couple of months—pano usually passes. In John’s case, the pano passed according to schedule. Then, four months later, he was diagnosed with a moderate case of hip displaysia.

Two months later, he went through surgery to help ease the problem. The surgery was successful, and we were able to keep further medical intervention limited to aspirin when necessary, and cortisone injections that provided a bit of additional cushion in the joint when he needed something more effective than a mild painkiller.

John stayed with me for ten years and four months before he left on a warm spring morning in the fresh-cut grass and wildflowers of a place he called home. During that time he walked with me, jogged with me when he (and I) could, wandered city streets and forgotten wooded paths by my side. He was a calm dog, patient, and forgiving of the usual mistakes new dog owners make. And in that time, I learned. Truth be told, I probably learned more because of John than I would have done had I accidentally bought a “better” dog from a quality breeding program. But I learned, and that education has made me passionate about a few things; John has left me with a legacy of his own.

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The German Shepherd Dog

This portion of the page is dedicated to Johnny, my first GSD; friend, companion, and sometimes counsellor for a little over a decade.


Almost everyone recognizes a German Shepherd Dog by sight. Old television programs such as the American Rin Tin Tin and new ones like the German Rex have popularized the image of the breed among the general public—as have the numbers of GSDs used in public service such as law enforcement, military duty, drug control, bomb detection, rescue and remains detection, and as therapy dogs, just to name a few. The breed’s silhouette and markings are familiar, and even if they’re all that’s visible, every shepherd owner laughingly and instinctively recognizes the silhouette of those distinctive ears. The GSD is known for a number of qualities and traits, not the least of which is its intelligence, but its reputation is often muddied by irresponsible breeders and owners. There is no excuse for the first, but the latter is often a simple matter of ignorance, or a lack of knowledge and understanding about the nature of the breed.

Origins

While the breed can trace its modern foundations back to a motley group of German sheepdogs in nineteenth-century Germany, it wasn’t until the late 1890s that the propogation of a specific type of dog created the impetus for the recognition of the modern German Shepherd Dog. That movement was finalized with the creation of the Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) in 1899—the breed’s very first breed club, and it is to these first registered dogs that all GSDs can trace their lineage, however convoluted or less-than-stellar their lineage may prove to be.

The breed spread moderately quickly after that, with the first import to the US in 1906. While shepherds managed to find their way around the globe, the two World Wars (1914-18 and 1939-45) nearly put the breed back to its starting point as breeding stock was lost or destroyed and anti-German sentiment rejected anything even remotely German. Nevertheless, the GSD persisted and continued to develop. Today’s GSD looks radically different from its ancestors. The first GSDs were generally slimmer, straighter, and squarer dogs which were then developed according to the physical structure requirements for this working dog’s needs, and German Shepherd Dogs are indeed intended and designed to be working dogs.

A Word About Kennel Clubs and Registries

Most countries have a national all-breed kennel club. Depending on the population numbers of a breed, there may or may not also be a parent or national breed club. For example, in the United States you’ll find the American Kennel Club (AKC), which handles registrations of all recognized pure-breed dogs within the country as well as maintains a record of each breed standard.

Aside from the AKC, you’ll also find the German Shepherd Dog Club of America (GSDCA) which, while it has affiliations with the AKC, is an independent organization in its own right. It uses the AKC standard. As with any breed, there are also AKC regional chapter clubs, also using the AKC-accepted standard.

In addition to the AKC and GSDCA, there are a couple of other specialty organizations for the breed, such as the United Schutzhund Clubs of America (USA; their focus is—as you’d expect—on Schutzhund) and the Working Dog Association (WDA), whose focus is much like the USA’s. The first is an organization completely independent of the AKC and uses the SV’s breed standard (aside from a couple of incorrectly translated words [e.g., "should" instead of "must"]). The WDA, on the other hand, has developed a peculiarly muddy relationship with the GSDCA that is, quite frankly, beyond me to clarify.

Confusing, isn’t it all just?

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Standards

A breed standard is a written description of what that breed should be. It includes everything from physical structure to mental characteristics and physical appearance. It is, in other words, a sort of blueprint for the ideal dog of that particular breed. The first GSD breed standard was created by the first GSD organization, the SV, and has undergone a number of revisions over the years. Most European kennel clubs have adopted direct translations of that standard as their own, or translations as close to the original as they’ve been able to achieve. England and the United States, however, have—after the document was translated—made substantial changes to the standard that has resulted in a a peculiar conflict that is most frighteningly demonstrated in the American-bred German Shepherd Dogs.

AKC vs SV Breed Standards

In the U.S., apart from those who participate in the USA, the AKC has the governing standard. (Remember, the GSDCA uses the AKC standard.) The question then, is to figure out where those standards differ. Basically, it boils down to these points:

  1. AKC’s standard is much more verbose; it gets prosey regarding overall appearance, behavior, impression, etc.
  2. AKC stipulates that any dog attempting to bite the judge will be disqualified.
  3. Bite. The German standard faults level, under, or overshot bite as well as a straight incisor. AKC declares over and level bites faulty, undershot jaw disqualifying, and doesn’t mention the incisor.
  4. Neck. The German standard requires a 45% degree angle to the body. AKC doesn’t mention the angle but rather discusses carriage.
  5. Chest. The German standard marks flat or barrel-shaped ribs as faulty, and that the chest depth should be 45-48% of the wither height.
  6. Croup. AKC indicates a slight downward slope while the German standard asks for length and a 23-degree angle.
  7. Forequarters. The AKC standard is much more general and unspecific than the German standard. The German standard requires that the forelegs be absolutely parallel to each other when viewed from the front. It also requires a 90-degree shoulder angle (allowing up to 110-degrees), and that pastern length should be a third the length of the forearm and at a 20-22 degree angle to the forearm.
  8. Hindquarters. Again, AKC is a bit more general. The German standard requires that the back legs should be parallel when viewed from the rear, and that upper and lower thighs should be approximately the same length, forming a 120-degree angle.
  9. Gait. AKC turns expansive on this subject, where the German standard is much more simplified. In essence, the German standard just requires that development of the dog be such that it can gait (trot) to maximum potential, front and back legs moving equally far under the body, and that the topline remain smooth without noticeable change during motion. The German standard warns against overangulation; such development weakens the dog’s power and movement. The AKC standard, on the other hand, waxes elaborate on the mechanics of movement, and marks that the topline should be firm and the hips should never be higher than the withers in full movement.
  10. Coat. AKC specifies the following coat types as faults: soft, silky, too long outer coat, woolly, curly, and open coat. The German standard assumes that anything that deviates from its specification is a fault and doesn’t bother to list the deviations.
  11. Skin. The German standard lists this requirement, specifying that there not be hanging or loose folds of skin. The AKC standard doesn’t mention it at all.
  12. Color. The German standard is much more specific in this case than the AKC standard. AKC simply marks a preference for darker colors, and that white is not allowed. The German standard, on the other hand, notes the slight grey cast to the undercoat, and that white flecks, red tip tail, light nails, or very light insides of the legs is a sign of bad pigmentation and while allowed, is not desired. White, on the other hand, is not allowed.
  13. Size and Weight. AKC doesn’t designate weights; it only specifies heights. Height standards between the two are much the same, but the German standard specifies 30-40kg for males, 20-32kg for females.
  14. Faults. AKC lists disqualifying faults; other faults are noted as they appear within each standard component. The German standard notes that deviations from its description are considered faults. Serious faults are listed separately (including: dentition, bite, lack of pigment, low/tipped/overset/soft ears). Disqualifying faults include character weakness, HD-diagnosed dogs, mono/cryporchid/unevenly sized/shrunken testicles, disfiguring ears/tails, malformed dogs, specific dentition problems (a separate list of missing or extra teeth or bite problems), 1cm over or under size requirements, albinos, white coats, long coats, and long stock (double) coats.

So, what does that all really mean? Well, in essence, the SV’s standard places heavier and very detailed emphasis on function and those things that affect function, especially structure. The AKC standard, on the other hand, places heavy emphasis on the appearance of the movement, and allows much looser interpretation on the question of structure. The end result is that American-bred GSDs tend to be longer, and much more extremely angulated in the back and rear than their European counterparts. European dogs tend to be a bit more square, and gear toward the SV’s angle specifications.

Having said that, however, we also have to clarify that the American-bred GSD tends to fall into two camps: conformation or working lines. Conformation lines generally focus on titling the dog in the conformation show ring, while breeders focusing on working lines tend to focus less on the conformation ring than on working titles, such as AKC obedience, Schutzhund (which includes a conformation factor), search and rescue, service, law enforcement, and therapy certifications. Those dogs that are geared toward the AKC and GSDCA show ring tend to be farther from the SV standard than their working-line counterparts. Distressingly, far too many of the conformation dogs show little working abilities, and far too many of the working dogs would be laughed out of a conformation ring. There is a huge debate between the two, each camp deriding the other, and the conflict is doing nothing more than creating two types of American-bred GSDs, neither of which—if the trend continues—will eventually be worthy of the name of German Shepherd Dog. There are some reputable breeders who are indeed trying to unite the two camps by combining conformation and working ability, but they’re finding it difficult to title properly under the current system of judging expectations where the focus is on a much heaver angulation.

The British situation is equally problematic. If you look for the breed standard on the Kennel Club of Great Britain’s web site, you’ll find the GSDs grouped under the “pastoral” category rather than working. The image currently displayed on that page shows a short-legged, rather long, very square, slightly short-necked GSD that bears a strong resemblance to an oversized Corgi and looks very peculiar to SV and even AKC standards, and is indicative of the conflict there. As with the United States, the GSD community is divided and, at the moment, neither side seems to be winning. Many breeders are using German and European stock or breeding toward SV standards, while others are creating a much different creature. Equally oddly, the British clubs still retain the use of the “Alsatian” name.

There is one other notable difference between the American and German/European system, and that is the process by which a GSD is determined to be breed-worthy; that it meets the standards to such an extent that it has the right to contribute to the breed’s gene pool. Put bluntly, the American system has no such measure—any registered GSD may be (and often is) bred, regardless of conformity to standards, temperment, or intelligence.

While the direction of importation tends to be from east to west (from Europe to the U.S.), and focuses most noticeably on working lines, it does, on occasion, move from west to east. In either direction, the results are not necessarily predictable. For instance, a prominent Norwegian breeder imported an American-bred GSD stud. He has added a much greater degree of angulation to that kennel’s lines, but he’s also contributed a loss of pigmentation.

Does that mean that American dogs are bad? Certainly not. It does mean that they are a radically different beast than their European counterparts (not including the British dilemma, which is similar to the American situation), and unless there is a change in organizations such as the AKC and GSDCA, that difference is liable to increase rather than decrease.

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An interesting trivia . . .

While GSD breed standards are based on the SV’s standard (however loosely, as in AKC’s case), that doesn’t necessarily mean that the terminology is the same. For instance, in the U.S., I was accustomed to hearing sable GSDs described as “grey sable” or “red sable.” Willis, operating from the British environment, uses the terms “golden sable” and “grey sable,” but the image he uses to illustrate the latter term is what Americans would think of as a “red sable,” and he had no picture illustrating what he termed a “golden sable.” In continental Europe, however—at least in Germany and Scandinavia—all sables are encompassed by the term “grey” (”sable” is not used) . . . regardless of color.

Impact: What’s all this mean to me?

That’s a good question. It depends on what you want to do with your GSD. If your emphasis is going to be on working performance rather than the American conformation ring, you may want one that has a heavier emphasis on European blood lines than American conformation show titles. Be warned, however, that that dog probably won’t do well in an American conformation ring, so if that’s your preference, then you’d probably do better to go with the American-bred conformation lines.

As an aside, I’ve read a number of commentaries that say that the European dogs are harder, sharper, more intensive, and have higher drive and energy levels. I’d argue that that’s an overgeneralization which compares two radically different types of dogs and expectations, and totally neglects the American-bred working GSD lines. Truth be told, I’ve met more sharp American-bred conformation dogs than European dogs. The trick, I think, is to remember that most American-bred dogs which are currently titling in the AKC/GSDCA system are bred for the American show ring, while the working dog lines—which, unfortunately, stand little chance in the AKC conformation ring—bear a much closer resemblance to the European GSD with its history and emphasis on both conformation and utility.

Do I want one?

That, too, is a good question. There are a lot of wonderful things to be said about German Shepherd Dogs, and it will probably always be my favorite breed. Given proper breeding, socialization, and training—and I can’t emphasize the last two enough—they’re highly intelligent, willing workers, eager to please, and terribly versatile. A good shepherd is often reserved with strangers, but not shy or fearful. Having said that, they’re also very independent thinkers, and require a lot of interaction and socialization in order to make them fully rounded and stable animals. They adjust easily to different environments, but absolutely must have physical activity and mental stimulation. This is not a breed that can be left alone for 18 hours out of the day without serious repercussions. Those that are often wind up in shelters, abandoned, put down for being unmanageable—or on the news. Shepherds are not built to be irrelevant appendages to their owner’s lives—something that’s bought, kept in the yard, and granted the odd fifteen minutes per day. They need to be part of the family; a part of your daily life, with all that means. The simple reality is that if you’re not prepared to spend a large portion of your day working with your dog on a daily basis, then you neither need nor want a GSD—this isn’t the breed for you.

Likewise, the dog’s physical size needs to be considered. Puppies are unutterably appealing, but they grow in a hurry. That little bundle of fur you can cradle in the crook of your elbow at eight weeks will ultimately weigh between 70 and 85 pounds and stand taller than a two-year old child. If you’re a bit unsteady on your pins, your dog is going to need some serious training in order for you to be able to handle him; he’ll have to learn to modify his strength and power to your lack of those things. If that’s not something you have the skilled resources to teach him, opt for a smaller breed that will be a better match for your own physical abilities. By the same token, if you’re living in a tight and controlled space, you may want to think twice; a coffee table or knick knack shelf can be cleared by a wagging tail to the sound of shattering glass in less than a second. Shepherds (assuming proper breeding, training, and socialization) are generally very good with their own families, but you’ll want to carefully consider a decision to bring a dog into your family if you have very young children who aren’t already educated about how treat an animal with gentleness and respect, particularly animals which are larger than they are.

People who have allergies probably need to stay away from this breed; Shepherds have a double coat that sheds year round, and they blow their undercoat coat every six months. There is a standing joke in the GSD community that the dogs shed enough to provide a tidy supply of knitting yarn; if there were a market for the stuff, GSD owners would be wealthy. Of course, since there is no such market, we resign ourselves to brushing, raking and, of course, a lot of sweeping and dusting.

Recommended Reading

There are a few books that have become staples for the breed. I haven’t had a chance to look at some of the latest texts on the market at the moment, but these two—while they may now be out of print—are two of my favorites.

Willis, Malcolm B. The German Shepherd Dog: A Genetic History. New York: Howell Book House, 1991. Willis’s book is one of the best available resources for anyone interested in the genetics of the breed. It has a ton of historical information as well as information on specific dogs world wide. It’s not an easy read, but it isn’t intended to be.

Strickland, Winifred and James Moses. The German Shepherd Today. New York: McMillan Publishing Company, 1988. An older book, this was one of the first things I read in my quest for knowledge. It’s an easy read, and doesn’t shortchange the reader.

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All Breed Information, Suggestions, Hints, and Tips

New Buyer Info

Preparation

There are a lot of things new buyers need to think about before they consider buying a dog. The first, of course, is the question of breed. Make certain that the breed is appropriate for you. If, for instance, you have limited mobility, you’re not going to want a dog that requires a lot of physical activity, such as the Border Collie. If you’re not interested in doing much by way of training, then neither do you want a breed that requires mental stimulation, such as the GSD. Take the time to investigate the breed carefully. Read everything you can get your hands on about the breed, and talk to other owners to get a sense of what the dog is like on a daily basis. Each breed has its own personality and characteristics; make sure you’re choosing one you can live with. Keep in mind that most dogs live from seven to fifteen years—generally speaking, the smaller the breed, the longer the life span—so you’re talking about a long-term commitment of time, energy, affection, and resources. Gut check your motives. Every dog deserves to have a good home in all the senses of that word. By the same token, if you’re considering getting into the business of breeding or want to buy a dog with the idea that you’ll make money, forget it. Do yourself, the dog, and any progeny and future owners a favor and get into a different business.

Where NOT to buy

Once you’ve decided what you want, the task will then be to find a reputable breeder. You do not, repeat NOT want to buy from a pet store. Far too many of their animals are purchased from puppy mills or indiscriminating breeders, and the odds of getting a pup that will be physically or mentally healthy are slim indeed. Don’t support that network, and don’t subject yourself to the heartache it will inevitably bring you.

Small breeder versus backyard breeder. There is a difference between the two, and it’s something you need to understand before you answer that newspaper advertisement. Small breeders are reputable breeders who choose to have only one or two litters each year. They often run a smaller operation, their dogs are usually family members, and they don’t breed a bitch for every heat. For that matter, they may not breed every other heat. They’re very selective about the litters they do breed, and may skip a year if they don’t feel their dogs are ready, or that they don’t have access to a suitable mate or bloodline, giving careful consideration to their breeding program’s goals and objectives.

Backyard breeders, on the other hand, represent almost everything that reputable breeders and the dog community hate. These are the people who often have more dogs than they can handle, whose dogs are less than stellar quality, who never bother to have their dogs evaluated, shown, or titled in either conformation or working titles. They often rest on the laurels of a “great-great-grandfather was a champion” type adage, one which is all too often nothing more than hearsay. They rarely have a copy of their own dog’s pedigree and know very little about the breed and breed standard (or don’t care). They don’t generally particpate or hold membership in any breed or all-breed organizations.

A backyard breeder’s reasons for breeding may vary, but are inevitably never because they have a genuine desire to make a positive contribution to the breed itself. Instead, they may breed in an effort to “recoup their losses” and make a little money. The operative word in that thinking is “little”; no reputable breeder gets into the business of breeding dogs to make money—it’s very much a money-losing proposition. Backyard breeders often tend to forget that breeding costs money. Even if they avoid the stud fee, there are still veterinary costs for the bitch, whelping the litter, puppy shots and wormings, registration fees, food, etc. The only operations that have a hope of breaking even are puppy mills, and they manage that because they don’t provide medical care, decent facilities, proper feeding, etc. Neglect and abuse have different costs.

Another reason is often so that other family members—primarily children—”can experience the miracle of birth.” There are far better ways for parents to do that one small chore, not the least of which includes dozens of videos available from PBS, National Geographic, and the nature and science channels that focus on animal births and young, but there is also a world of resources in a dozen different formats that explain the birth process and which are specifically geared toward small children. Nor is it unthinkable that a child wouldn’t understand what she saw through the window of the natal ward of the local hospital. It is, however, unthinkable that an owner would be so selfish and self-centered as to force an animal through the needless trauma of pregnancy, birth, and caring for a litter for the next eight weeks, much less the added stress of noisy observers and prodding fingers during the hours that are required to birth the pups—a situation already fraught with tension.

Another frequently given reason is that the owner feels that the bitch should have the “opportunity to have babies” at least once. With all due respect, that reason is as much a crock as the others. A dog won’t know whether it’s missing anything by not having a litter. While most bitches are relatively good about caring for their young, we make a fatal mistake if we attribute human emotion to the process. The argument is an old one, based in the idea that females are deemed incomplete if they do not have children or bear young. Just as that is not true for humanity, it is even less relevant for the animal world.

Backyard breeders are only one step up from puppy mills. They have no sound breeding program, no valid breeding ethics, and the puppies they produce are just as liable to wind up in the local pound or abandoned by future owners as not. Nor does it stop there. The pups that a backyard breeder produce will have at least a percentage which are, in turn, used by other backyard breeders, which keeps the cycle in motion. No less problematically, these breeders are introducing questionable qualities and bad genetics into the breed’s gene pool, and most breeds have problems enough without that extra complication.

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Where TO buy

That’s the tough one, you’d think, but it’s really not. Remember that when you purchase a puppy (or any animal of any age), you’re making both an investment and a commitment, so take the time to research the seller and the product as carefully as you would any other major purchase. Think about it this way. Let’s assume you’re buying a dog that will die quietly in its sleep at ten years of age. Your first cost will be the purchase price, and for the sake of argument, let’s put it at the low end of the scale. After you write that $300 check, you’ll have the rest of the puppy shots in the first six months, which will probably cost you at least another $200. Your pup will have an annual checkup, and booster rabies and parvo vaccinations every year, in addition to any dental care that may be necessary, so add another $200 each year for a total of $2500 thus far. If you have the dog spayed or neutered, there’s an additional $200. Add to that dog food at roughly $40/month (cheap), leashes, collars, bedding, toys, crates, and any additional medical costs (every dog gets sick now and then), and you’re looking at no less than $8000 over that ten year period. If you have a small dog of the breadbox size, then obviously the feeding costs are going to be considerably less than that of a St. Bernard. Regardless of size, however, you’re still proposing a major expenditure. Nor will money be your only outlay. You’ll have to factor in your time, and your energy. You wouldn’t make an $8000 purchase or investment without doing your homework, so do the same with this decision. If you don’t, you’re setting yourself up for heartache.

You do, however, have some options. If you don’t care about breed specifics but are simply looking for a companion dog, consider checking out your local animal shelter. I’ve yet to see a shelter that doesn’t have more dogs and puppies (or cats and kittens) than they can place, and rescuing an animal from death row carries its own gratification. Likewise, they often have pure-breed dogs, so if the registration isn’t important to you, you still may find your friend in one of the shelter’s overcrowded cells.

Alternatively, if you’re specifically interested in a certain breed but don’t feel a need for a new puppy, do consider contacting one of the breed rescue organizations. Virtually every breed club has a number of rescue organizations scattered throughout the country, many of which can be located by contacting the national breed club or just checking the Internet. The animals come from a variety of backgrounds, so you’ll need to get as much information as possible and consider your own specific abilities and skills. If, for instance, this is your first dog, I wouldn’t recommend you take in a dog from an abusive situation. Like children, they come with baggage, but unlike children, they can’t talk to you to tell you what’s wrong. You may need a bit more experience before you take on that particular challenge. Some dogs are rescued from abusive situations (such as puppy mills or abusive owners), others are dropped off by owners who hadn’t counted on what they got. That tends to be especially true for the larger breeds and the hounds. Hounds chew everything in sight, and think with their noses, which can play havoc with walls, floors, furniture, etc. Larger breeds simply grow up, and that little puppy is suddenly too much to handle without proper training—which the majority don’t get.

If, however, you want a pure-breed dog with all the requisite papers, one that you can enter into competition—conformation or working—then you’ll need to find a reputable breeder. That also means, however, that you’re going to have to decide whether you want a pet-quality pup or a competition dog. If you’ve no plans for competing and are “simply” looking for a companion and friend, then your search will be a little easier, and your purchase price may be a bit cheaper. U.S. breeders have a tendency to price competition-quality pups a bit higher than their pet-quality brothers and sisters, and often require that the pet puppies be spayed or neutered in order to prevent the lesser qualities from entering the gene pool. That doesn’t mean that a pet-quality puppy is a bad quality pup—far from it. It simply means that the breeder doesn’t expect this pup to do well in competition (working or conformation), and would rather see only the best of her breeding program contribute to the breed’s genetics.

Make your first step to contact the national breed club for the breed. You can find their contact information at AKC’s web site on the breed standard for that particular breed; it’s usually listed on the left sidebar of their site’s current page layout. Most breed clubs have lists of breeders, and usually breeders who’ve agreed to the club’s breeders’ ethics policy. You’ll also find it helpful to contact the local breed club if there is one; they would know which of their members have litters on the ground, what local breeders are backyard breeders or puppy mills and should be avoided, etc. If there is no local breed club—and that is especially possible for small towns and rural locations—look for the nearest AKC chapter club. Because they include all breeds, you may well find a few breeders of the type of dog you’re looking for in their membership.

Once you have your list of possible sources, make appointments to talk to a few of them. There are going to be some questions you’ll need to ask.

Obviously, your first question will be whether or not they have any puppies available, or dogs if you’re looking for something a little older. But even if they don’t, don’t hesitate to talk to the breeder. You may find that you like their ethics, philosophies, and stock better than any others and would rather wait for a future litter. As an aside, if you find that the breeder is deliberately breeding and selling mixed-breed dogs, you’re in the wrong place. There is absolutely no reason for a reputable breeder to breed for a mix, and doing so indicates a definite conflict with the breeder’s code. Run, don’t walk, to the nearest exit.

You’ll want to ask them how long they’ve been in the business, how long they’ve been with this particular breed. Ask them about their breeding philosophies; they should have some distinct goals. What do they look for in their stock, and why do they breed? Ask them about the breed. What do they believe are the strong points and the weak. If you’re new to the breed, what do they believe you should know before you get your first dog?

Find out what clubs and organizations the breeder participates in or is a member of. If she’s not a member of any—particularly if she’s never been or hasn’t been in a long time—find out why. It doesn’t bode well if a breeder isn’t even a member of her own national breed’s club.

Find out what titles the breeder has put on her dogs. Again, if she hasn’t bothered to concern herself with either conformation or working titles, tread warily. Titles are one way of verifying that a dog meets the standards or has the expected working abilities and intelligence. Having said that, there are some small breeders who were once very active, but have largely dropped out of sight and reduced their activity to the bare minimum. There may be several reasons for that, not the least of which may be a matter of age or physical ability. Many of the older breeders can no longer physically show their own dogs, and don’t necessarily have the resources to hire a handler to do it for them. Take the time to find out why they’re no longer titling or certifying their stock and weigh those answers carefully.

If the parents of the litter are on the premises, take a look at them. If it’s possible for you to interact with them, do so under the breeder’s guidance. The parents will tell you much about the pups. Likewise, watch how the breeder handles her own dogs and check their living conditions. Are they staked out in the yard 24/7, or are they members of the family? You’ll learn a fair amount about the nature of the person you may or may not be dealing with by the way she handles her dogs, and vice versa.

If you know anything about the breed, ask to take a look at the parents’ pedigrees (you may want a copy for your own records if you buy one of the pups), and make sure you know what registry the pups are going to be registered with.

Almost every breed has a medical weakness. For large breeds, it’s usually dysplasia. Long, heavy dogs like basset hounds can have back problems. Some of the toy breeds have eye problems. Certain breeds are prone to epilepsy, some hemophilia, others deafness, and so on. If you’ve done your homework on the breed of your choice, you’ll know what the potential weaknesses are, so check your prospective breeder’s lines for those defects. For dysplasia, hips and elbows should be x-rayed and certified, almost always before the stock is used for breeding. Find out what checks the breeder has made on her dogs. If, for instance, you’re talking to a GSD breeder who hasn’t bothered to check her stock’s hips and elbows, you’ll want to go elsewhere.

Your breeder won’t be able to give you an iron-clad guarantee about your dog—for instance, if you’re looking for a competition dog, there’s no way she can say that the pup you’re buying will win at trial—but she can try to help you pick a pup that will meet your specific expectations and requirements. Talk to her. Tell her what you plan to do with the dog, and what role you expect it to play in your life.

Likewise, she can’t give you a certain guarantee that nothing will go wrong with your pup. What she can do, however—and should do—is give you a contract that offers some sort of treatment in the event that the pup develops a genetic problem (e.g., dysplasia). Most reputable breeders will offer you a replacement pup, but for most of us, that’s not really an option. By the time the dog is diagnosed, he’s become such an integral part of our lives that returning him to the breeder is simply unthinkable. Alternatively, however, many reputable breeders will offer to help defray the medical costs in the event that something like this does occur despite their best and most careful breeding efforts. Ask. Find out what your options are, and hope you don’t need them. It is, however, better to have something in place and not need it.

Get references. It may sound odd, but ask her for the names and addresses or phone numbers of some of her customers, and take the time to contact them. Find out how their pups turned out, what service the breeder provided, etc. If she can’t or won’t provide references, think twice.

Be prepared for the breeder to ask you as many questions as you ask her, if she’s worth her salt. She’s going to want to know as much about you as you do about her and her dogs before she risks placing one of her animals with you, and it’s important that you understand that that’s how she’ll see it—as a risk. She’ll want to know what experience you’ve had with the breed (or others), what your plans and expectations are. She’ll ask about yards and living conditions, family and children so that she can get a sense of what kind of environment she may be placing one of her dogs in. And while you’re at it, be prepared for her to say no. Remember, this meeting is much like a job interview; it’s a chance for both of you to decide whether her dogs are right for you. If she decides not to sell to you, trust her judgement of her own stock. Her dogs may be higher drive than you’re prepared for, or she may be afraid that the physical environment doesn’t match the dog’s needs. Do ask her for her reasons, but don’t take the rejection personally. Instead, use the opportunity to ask her for her recommendations. As a cautionary aside, be warned that a large percentage of the dog community lacks communication finesse. Their dogs are their passion, and many of them are better skilled at communicating with their animals than with other people.

Last, if you and the breeder do come to an agreement, be warned that the better breeders like to keep in touch with their clients. They want to make sure their pups are going to good homes, and they like to see how things turn out. Take advantage of that. The breeder is one of your best resources for the breed, particularly if you’re new to the breed. Don’t make a pest of yourself, but do take advantage of the knowledge and experience she represents.

Most importantly, take your time. This is not a decision to rush into. Talk to several breeders, do your homework, check the references. It’s incredibly difficult to refuse a puppy at first sight, so harden your heart until you’re absolutely certain you’re making the right choice for both you and the pup. If you don’t, the repercussions for both lives—yours and the pup’s—could be tragic.

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Kennel Clubs

Most kennel clubs have an online presence these days. A simple Yahoo! or Google search will generally find the one you need.

Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV) The German connection. This organization is the “heart” of the breed.
German Shepherd Dog Club of America (GSDCA) One of the primary American registries/clubs for the GSD.
The Kennel Club of Great Britain (KC) The British equivalent of the AKC.
American Kennel Club (AKC) Probably the most commonly recognized American kennel club, with information on all breeds.
Norwegian Kennel Club (NKK) The all-breed kennel club of Norway.
http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/ I recently stumbled over this site, and I have to say that it’s one of the best online resources for GSD lineages I’ve seen in a very long time. The database is searchable, and there’s a remarkable amount of information present. It’s a bit awkward in a couple of places, and some of the secondary page links seem to be borking at the moment, but in my less than humble opinion, it’s truly awesome.

The Current Beast(s)

Kid Kaiser, 9 years

In Memoriam

Esti, 13 yearsEsti Etik av Mosestǔa
May 1990 - Oct 2003